Discover the awe-inspiring beauty of Lahaul Valley on a snow-filled road trip from Snowy Manali, immersing yourself in breathtaking mountain vistas.
"Aisi jagah par jaane ke liye log visa lagwate hain. Main aur app toh yun hi aa gaye". As we exited the car, these were the very first words to escape Gautam Bhai's lips. We stood upon a narrow metal road, a pathway rendered thinner by towering walls of snow on either side. As we glanced around, a breath-taking sight greeted us—snow blanketed every inch of the surroundings, as far as the eye could reach. It was a true snow paradise, a vision straight from the dreams.
From the pages of books to the silver screen, we had witnessed adventurers undertaking epic journeys, often facing the challenges of obtaining multiple visas to reach such mystical destinations. But fate had a different plan for us. Gautam Bhai's metaphor (the opening italicised lines) of our arrival without the need for visas became an indelible moment forever etched in the gallery of my memories.
Arriving at this place was the fulfilment of a dream seen years ago. The desire to capture frames from such a location was the driving force behind acquiring the professional Nikon Z7 camera. Through this post, let me transport you on a visual expedition, immersing you in the remarkable journey of transforming that dream into an extraordinary reality.
Best places to visit in March in India
Manali, a top ranking Indian tourist destination, is one of the best places one can visit in March in India. There are multiple factors that makes Manali visit favourable in March:
Shoulder season - Manali sees the onset of the busy tourist season in March. The final exams (in schools & colleges alike) and the financial year closing month of March keeps a wide variety of desi tourists away.
Favourable Weather - Manali in March sees the temperature hovering between 10 - 25° C. This makes it excellent for day tours.
Snow bound higher reaches - The higher reaches of Manali on the Leh and Kaza roads remains blocked due to snow. This cease the deluge of tourists that make Manali pit stop during their Leh/Kaza journey. The snow bound places higher up Manali such as Sissu and beyond can be found crowd-free.
The factors mentioned above guided my decision to choose Manali as the destination. This month-long workcation demanded reliable transportation, network connectivity, and uninterrupted electricity, making Manali the perfect base camp to fulfil these requirements.
Through this post, I'll take you on a road trip from Manali to Lahaul Valley. But before I do that, I want to point you to my comprehensive travel guide to Manali - The Ultimate Manali Travel Guide. It includes practical information on where to stay, what to pack, and how to get around.
Manali where to stay?
Your choice of stay should align with the type of Manali experience you desire.
The final leg of my Manali journey was dedicated to a snow road trip, necessitating travel north from the town. Due to Manali's immense popularity among visitors from near and far, crowd and traffic conditions are unpredictable, especially during peak seasons when traffic jams are infamous.
To avoid the chaos during and after the road trip, it was wise to seek accommodation on the northern outskirts of Manali. This area was adorned with charming villages and offered uninterrupted mountain views. If fortunate, you might even catch glimpses of snow patches in late March.
I was fortunate to book a hotel at the entrance of Burwa village, where the façade revealed stunning valleys crowned with snow. The room featured an organised workspace, ample storage, and two comfortable bucket chairs facing a small table. But the highlight was the large window, offering an intimate encounter with the snow-capped mountains. Once settled in, I couldn't bear to leave this captivating view.
If you enjoyed the above snow-capped mountain view, you'll love Munsiyari. This beautiful village in the Himalayas offers stunning views of the snow-capped peaks. Check out this post - A winter wonderland in the Himalayas.
A Quest for the Snow-Clad Mountains: A Day in the Life of a Traveller
During my stay at the hotel, four out of six days greeted me with a cloak of gloom. Intermittent showers and thick clouds draped the landscape like a mysterious veil. The first two days unfolded in this misty, mysterious manner. A glimmer of hope emerged from the weather report, hinting at a clear, sunny day.
Transitioning from Dhungri to Burwa, I sought the reliable cab service of Mr Gautam, a knowledgeable local from Dhungri village. A simple man, he held the secrets of Manali and the rest of Himachal in his heart. I sought his expertise for a road trip to the magnificent high pass Bara-lacha La, but he revealed that heavy snow still blocked its path.
Undeterred by this setback, we planned a ~280 KM round trip, with the last accessible point being Darcha. Despite the office work keeping me up, thoughts of the trip, snow-clad valleys, and capturing stunning shots with my Nikon Z7 and Z30 cameras left me sleepless.
At 5:30 AM, the alarm greeted me with darkness and bitter cold. By 6 AM, I was ready to embark on the adventure. Gautam Bhai's call confirmed his punctuality, but an unforeseen traffic snarl delayed him until 6:45 AM. Waiting in the warm embrace of the hotel's reception area, I stepped out into the open space, where the chilly morning air playfully brushed my face – nature's way of saying good morning.
As moments passed, the morning sun emerged like the soft backlight in a theatre, illuminating the partially snow-covered mountains. I witnessed this enchanting light play from the elevated steps of the hotel's entrance area.
Despite the slight 45-minute delay, nature bestowed a promising signal for our road trip. At 7:15 AM, we set off on the journey, feeling the mountains calling us to unravel their majestic splendour. The adventure had just begun!
The Charm of Sissu: A Gateway to the Lahaul Valley
My last visit to Manali in January 2020 revolved around unravelling the charm of this snow-covered town. At that time, the Atal Tunnel construction neared completion. The road beyond Solang Nallah, the gateway to the tunnel's current South Portal, buzzed with construction activities.
The tunnel revolutionised access to Manali's lofty expanses on the Leh/Kaza route, freeing it from the six-month clutches of snowbound Rohtang Pass.
Nestled in the picturesque Lahaul Valley, Sissu stands as the gateway village when approaching from Manali. Located just 40 KM away, Sissu now boasts quicker accessibility from Manali, thanks to the remarkable Atal Tunnel.
"Surprisingly, reaching Sissu has now become faster than the journey to Kullu". Gautam Bhai highlighted the lightning-fast access to Sissu, despite both destinations being equidistant from Manali.
Be ready to witness the dramatic transformation in the landscape as you emerge from the tunnel's North Portal. The lush green coniferous mountains that hugged Manali fade away, giving way to a rugged mountain terrain painted in prominent shades of black and brown. A remarkable sight awaits you, as even in mid-March, an unexpected abundance of snow blankets the surroundings, casting a mesmerising spell over the scene.
A few hundred meters from the tunnel's exit awaits the next highlight: a magnificent girder bridge, resplendent in its vibrant green hue, spanning over the majestic River Chandra. The landscape surrounding the bridge, both upstream and downstream, is adorned with a thick, glistening blanket of snow.
The abundance of snow here foreshadowed the winter wonderland that awaited us on the remaining 50 KM journey. We made a quick five-minute stop to capture stunning images from the bridge, which offered a magnificent view of the tunnel's entrance, the majestic Chandra River, and the surrounding valleys.
Just six kilometres from the North Portal of Atal Tunnel lies Sissu Village. Once you turn left from the bridge, the glistening Chandra River becomes your steadfast companion, accompanying you throughout your journey to Sissu and beyond.
As we journeyed alongside the meandering river, it revealed its ever-changing forms and shapes, gracefully winding through the snow-laden valley.
Amidst the frozen expanse, a small patch of unfrozen water caught my eye. The brilliance of the morning sun gracefully illuminated this contrasting element amidst the pristine surroundings, revealing a sight that would have otherwise gone unnoticed.
This picturesque scene called for a photo pitstop, where my mirrorless Nikon Z7 captured the essence of this unique moment. Take a look!
Our journey to Sissu was quick. We took a moment for a tea break. As we strolled along the lane adjacent to the main road, we couldn't help but admire the series of government rest houses that stood pompously. Positioned against a breath-taking backdrop of snow-coated mountains, these houses exuded charm and tranquillity, adding allure to the picturesque setting.
A Perfect Getaway in the Himalayas: Keylong and Jispa
Exiting Sissu, we found ourselves on a winding road leading us to Keylong, a peaceful town situated at an altitude of 10,100 feet. The town welcomed us with open arms, offering breathtaking vistas of the surrounding mountains.
Keylong, nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of Lahaul district, serves as the administrative headquarters and offers a range of accommodations and dining choices. With its unrivalled natural beauty, Keylong and its surrounding areas should be explored for at least a day or two.
We continued our journey towards Jispa, a small village nestled on the banks of the Bhaga River. The drive from Keylong to Jispa treated us to panoramic views of snow-capped peaks, gushing rivers, and verdant meadows. Jispa, with its idyllic setting and warm hospitality, makes for a perfect retreat.
Darcha: A Breathtaking Stop Along the Manali-Leh Highway
Our final destination was Darcha, an essential stop along the legendary Manali-Leh Highway. The journey was thrilling, manoeuvring through steep cliffs and challenging terrain.
Finally, we reached the renowned Darcha Bridge. This was the longest bridge in Himachal Pradesh and along the entire Manali-Leh Highway. This awe-inspiring structure stands as a testament to human engineering, harmonising with the rugged beauty of the Himalayas.
Upon reaching the opposite end of the bridge, we had accomplished a nonstop journey of over 60 KM since our last pit stop in Sissu. The road ran parallel to a mesmerising turquoise glacier-fed river, embraced by the grandeur of snow-clad mountains.
This captivating scenery enticed us to pause and soak in the beauty of the surroundings. Despite the 11 AM hour, the brilliant sun and dazzling snow presented a challenge for exploring the area without the shielding hug of sunglasses.
The highway, operational from May to mid-September, runs near international borders and is managed by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO), a body under the Ministry of Defence, India. At the bridge's end, there's a police check post during the season, but this time, it was deserted.
Observing a group of individuals carrying road repairing tools, we inquired and discovered they were contract workers employed by BRO for road clearing. According to them, the road had been cleared of snow for approximately 40 KM ahead, enabling vehicles to travel. Despite Bara-lacha La Pass being unreachable, we were assured that reaching the serene small lake Deepak Tal, just 15 KM away, was still within our grasp.
When I suggested going to Deepak Tal, Gautam Bhai cautioned, "The lake will be completely covered in snow, you won't be able to see it at all". But this only fuelled my excitement, as I replied, "I travelled 2100 KM for precisely this view. Let's go!". Gautam Bhai pulled the car out with great zeal.
A Tranquil Snowy Escape in Lahaul Valley
Ascending through the labyrinth roads, the scenery turned pristine. Negotiating a rocky stretch, Gautam Bhai worried about the car's bottom, but his expertise prevailed. From here on, the snow density increased, and soon, we arrived at a point dominated by three colours: the greys of the narrow metal road, the blues of the clouds, and the whites of the abundant snow.
Deciding against extending our journey due to treacherous conditions, we headed to a safer area near a BRO camp. With camera in hand, I walked to capture the best snow landscape frames. A short walk led me to a vast open area, where the road ahead vanished into the immaculate snow landscape.
After walking a few kilometres, I reached a point where the road seemed to disappear. The black soil, scattered with dark stones, created striking patterns amidst the snow blocks. I couldn't resist capturing this captivating sight, taking over 50 images with various compositions.
The BRO's Dedication to Keeping Strategic Roads Open
As I continued my walk, I arrived at a spot where the road widened considerably. A JCB, likely used by the BRO Team to clear the road, sat amidst the snow. The striking yellow machine amidst the white snow created a unique moment in the snowy landscape.
The BRO has redoubled its efforts to open strategic roads and passes sooner, aiming to minimise closure duration and achieve earlier road openings than in previous years.
In 2022, BRO took approximately 144 days to clear the snow on the Manali-Leh Highway, opening it on 26th March. However, in 2023, they accomplished the task even faster, opening the road in just 138 days on 25th March.
The Beauty of Nature: A Photographer's Dream Come True
Recalling a river bridge from where we entered the snowbound area, I realised it was farther away. I asked Gautam Bhai to start heading back. A few hundred meters from the bridge, I found the ideal spot. The bridge appeared in the distance, and the gravel took on a black hue, making the glacier-fed stream look dark. Aligning everything naturally in the frame, I captured the scene, and the result was nothing short of a dream. Take a look!
The hours spent here were incredibly soothing, and the best part was the complete absence of crowds. It's a place where you can easily scoop fresh snow from the side of the road.
The snow naturally formed various shapes, like the one below that resembled a flower blooming in a snow garden.
A Road Trip to Remember: A Snow-Filled Adventure in Lahual Valley
We reluctantly bid farewell to Deepak Tal and started our return journey. The memories of the mesmerising landscapes, the thrill of conquering treacherous roads, and the awe-inspiring beauty of the snow-capped mountains stay with us, forever etched in our hearts.
We arrived at this point well past 2 PM, where the Darcha Bridge and hairpin bend downhill came into clear view. The elevated vantage offered a magnificent sight, and I captured a few shots in less than two minutes with both my mobile and camera.
After an hour, we finally arrived in Keylong. The sun's warmth compelled us to shed some layers of warm clothing. The growling stomachs reminded us that it had been seven hours since our last chai break. On the outskirts of the town, we spotted a neat-looking hotel, but to be honest, it was the breathtaking snow-filled backdrop that enticed me to stop at the hotel.
The hotel had a clean interior. Considering the 70 KM distance left to Manali, I decided to go for Chicken Thupka. It took 15 minutes for the dish to arrive, but the taste and generous portions of tender chicken and vegetables made it entirely worthwhile.
With the setting sun casting a warm glow over the mountains, we arrived in Manali, completing our epic snow-filled mountain road trip in a single day. The sense of accomplishment, the breathtaking sights witnessed, and the memories created made this whirlwind adventure unforgettable.
As we reflect on the stark difference in the landscape between Manali and the snow-filled Lahual Valley, we realise the transformative power of nature and how it can transport us to a world of sheer beauty.
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