Discover Satpura Tiger Reserve with the ultimate safari adventure & best travel guide. Explore wildlife, scenic landscapes & hidden gems!
It was an early December day. For us remote IT workers, such a day begins with a lazy tap on the laptop's start button. The office hours ended with the last all-hands meeting.
I took the mobile for a casual glance at Instagram after bidding goodbye to work. A post with a lovely tiger floating in a river-like waterbody caught my eye. The edge of the mist-covered water had a neat array of foliage. The details revealed that this was a tiger caught in the wilderness of the Satpura Tiger Reserve.
The sight of the tiger in the winter wilderness had an instant impact. It was such a puller that I dodged my firm rule of not travelling during peak season in December.
Satpura National Park Blog
My struggle to find an optimal blog post on wildlife marrying informative and engaging content with visuals continues. My experience with Satpura National Park was no exception. This Satpura National Park blog post parallels my previous efforts that showcased the beauty of the Pench and Bandhavgarh national parks.
The twin Nikon mirrorless cameras, Z8 and Z7, were at the helm of photography. Thus, the frames on this Satpura National Park blog will be a treat to the eyes.
The post will be most enjoyable if read in its natural sequence. If interested in specific fragments, then the collapsible bullet list below will serve as a virtual guide.
Your Satpura Tiger Reserve Guide: Jump to What Matters!
Satpura Tiger Reserve
Satpura Tiger Reserve came into existence in 2000 by combining three contiguous forests - Satpura, Bori, and Pachmari wildlife sanctuaries. Satpura Tiger Reserve covers an expansive area of 2133 square kilometres.
Satpura National Park is a significant subarea within Satpura Tiger Reserve. The internet sees interchangeable usage of Satpura National Park and Satpura Tiger Reserve. This post reflects a similar use of the names. The reference is always to the larger Satpura Tiger Reserve.
Why is Satpura Tiger Reserve famous? | Why is Satpura National Park famous?
Satpura National Park is famous for its diverse flora and fauna. The reserve is home to over 50 species of mammals, 254 species of birds, and many reptiles and butterflies. The presence of Royal Bengal tigers made the park popular in its fauna department.
Satpura Tiger Reserve offers a variety of attractions beyond its wildlife. The landscape of the park shows the dominance of tall Sal and Teak trees. These give the park an emerald touch throughout the year. Beautiful river and its backwaters adorn the forest's vistas.
Deep inside you will find glamorous waterfalls. One of them happens to be the highest falling as a single drop from the towering height of 107 meters.
Satpura holds traces of prehistoric life in its rock shelters. Cave paintings, over 10,000 years old, show hunters, animals, and rituals—much like those at Bhimbetka, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Stone tools hint at early human life.
Exploring these sites offers a glimpse into history, where nature and ancient cultures meet.
Satpura Tiger Reserve Zones
Satpura Tiger Reserve is a vast and diverse landscape. To make exploring easier, it is divided into different zones. Each zone has unique terrain, wildlife, and chances of spotting rare animals.
Choosing the right zone can shape your safari experience. Track tigers, observe birds, or explore the wilderness.
The park has core and buffer zones. Core zones with higher concentrations of fauna have the most wildlife activities.
The buffer zones are the fringe areas outside the core zones. These are best suited if one wants to witness the landscape of the forest. Buffer zones could also see wildlife as zones are boundaries created for humans. The animals are free from the clutches of the so-called borders.
Satpura Tiger Reserve Buffer Zones
The buffer zones of the Satpura Tiger Reserve include areas like Parsapani (Pathai), Jamani Devi (Sehra), and others.
These zones feature diverse landscapes with lush meadows, streams, and forests. Wildlife sightings include Gaur, Leopard Gecko, and Porcupine, offering unique biodiversity and scenic beauty.
Satpura Tiger Reserve Core Zones
The core zones of the Satpura Tiger Reserve include Madhai, known for its diverse landscapes and frequent tiger sightings, offering activities like safaris and canoeing.
Churna features abundant water streams and is ideal for wildlife spotting.
Pachmarhi boasts scenic viewpoints and opportunities for trekking and cycling.
48 Hours in Satpura Tiger Reserve Madhai
December marks the onset of the busy tourist season. From oceans to forests and everything in between sees a huge demand. Rendezvous with the forest in such times can be difficult given the complex booking.
MPT Bison Resort
I had an incredible experience staying at Madhya Pradesh Tourism (MPT) hotels across major tiger reserves in MP.
I was lucky enough to find two days' accommodation at MPT Bison Resort. Its stacked orange stairway welcomes visitors, but the true charm lies within.
To the left, a lush garden overlooks the Denwa River, framed by the blue Mahadeo Hills. Maroon tiles edge the garden, topped with stone umbrellas and tree bark-shaped chairs.
Under the bright sun, its beauty was hard to admire. But hours later, bathed in soft light, the view was pleasing.
Madhai - The Unique Safari Zone
With over two dozen safaris across the length and breadth of India, I've to admit Madhai is the best and a unique zone. The following factors contribute to its uniqueness:
Unique zone: Madhai is the only tiger reserve gate in India which needs a river crossing. Navigating the blue waters against the backdrop of splendid Mahadeo Hills in a short three-minute boat ride is a treat. Until 2023, safari on foot was possible in this core zone, again a rarity. This stopped, given the growing population of tigers. The zone also offers a boat safari, another rare experience exclusive to this tiger reserve.
A boat crossing Denwa River through scenic Madhai Zone near Satpura Tiger Reserve. Shot on Nikon Z7. Impeccable views: The sunrise and sunset from the shores of the river are the best experiences and an absolute must. This is one of those zones where nature is at its best and can give the best of wildlife sightings a run for its charm.
Accommodation availability: This park lacks familiarity, so nearby accommodations remain limited and can be expensive. If you find a place to stay, getting to the park gates may be tiring. In contrast, Madhai has many places to stay, from budget to ultra-luxury.
A view of Denwa River with MPT Bison Resort and other accommodations along the bank. Shot on Nikon Z7. Easy commute: Madhai is the only Satpura Tiger Reserve zone which is easily accessible by flight, train and road. The other zones, including the buffer, lie far off in the remote corners of the park.
Madhai Zone Evening Safari
My Madhai zone evening safari began at the makeshift jetty near the forest department's booking office.
The narrow jetty had its one-fourth done in light beige coloured bamboo raft. The remaining fibre made part dominated in blue. Five or more people on the long edge of the jetty see it wobbling.
The jerk wasn't a concern. Negligence here can land you in knee-deep waters.
Our shimmering blue boat sailed across the azure waters. The stunning backdrop of cobalt blue mountains was our constant companion. The safari began after the quick wrap of formalities.
Within ten minutes of entering the zone, our guide announced the sighting of a tigress. This was a rather wide area covered with tall grass shining gold in the beaming evening sun. A bunch of peacocks were wandering in a playful flurry.
The next moment everything became still. The peacocks and we tourists focused on the rear end of the grassland where stood a thick-barked tree. The leaves of the tree spread out like a Japanese hand fan.
From the bushes emerged the queen - a tigress in its majesty.
We got a good view of the lady supreme of the jungle. All the vehicles started following her in slow motion. Walking in her rhythm, she disappeared into the wilderness.
The usual tendency of the safari team after a sighting like this is to relax and wind up the drive at the earliest.
We urged the team to embrace the adventure ahead. Our group wasn’t focused on spotting the stars of the jungle, like the tigers and leopards. Instead, we encouraged our guides to pause for anything that caught our attention.
Soon, we came across a trail. Here, a magnificent, shining ghost tree welcomed us with its branches spreading wide.
We continued our journey. Our guide told us that the area for the next few miles is home to leopards. We couldn't spot one. Right before exiting the park, the departing sun showed us its magic.
The sky became a vibrant palette of orange. The sun became a perfect round ball of white. It began to descend beyond the silhouette of the jungle.
In the next few seconds, it almost disappeared in the lap of the grey hills, leaving behind a tiny white arc.
Indian Giant Squirrel
A species of animal which always attracts attention is the squirrel. Its pint size makes it difficult to adore its playful mannerisms.
Imagine a squirrel that is three times larger than the typical ones we see around us. Its body is a beautiful mix of colors—a rich wine red on its back and creamy beige on its belly. The beige color, with a hint of cherry red, also covers its face and tail, creating a striking yet peaceful sight.
What you read above isn't a story from a wildlife novel. This is about a species of squirrel profound in Satpura Tiger Reserve - the Indian Giant Squirrel.
The jungles of Satpura offer an ideal habitat for Indian Giant Squirrels. They construct their nests high in the trees. The tree heights are comparable to that of a fourth-floor apartment in cities.
These squirrels are capable of jumping between trees. The leap can be as high as a vertical stack of four average-sized humans.
The Indian Giant Squirrel are active during the early hours of the day and the evenings. They go with the concept of afternoon naps.
The species play a large role in shaping the ecosystem of its habitat by engaging in seed dispersal.
The Indian Giant Squirrel listed in ICUN Red category signalling severe endangerment. It also happens to be the mascot of Satpura Tiger Reserve and state animal of Maharashtra.
Are these enough to protect the fast depleting population? Time will tell, probably the horrific extinction story.
Madhai Zone Morning Safari
Safaris in the winter begin at 6 AM. This is a norm across various wildlife sanctuaries in India. Waking up at 5 AM means fighting the twin devils of sleep and cold. As per the terms in the safari ticket, one needs to report 30 minutes prior.
I reached the booking counter on time to realise that I was the only person breathing out clouds of white vapor. The counter opened 15 minutes later. It was pitch dark as we jetted off to cross the Denwa River.
I got paired with a seven-member family from a western Indian state. We started with the first rays of the morning. Soon, we reached a viewpoint at the edge of the forest.
The soft, bluish light of the morning sun illuminated the vegetation in front of our vehicle. Our guide pointed out that the water body in the distance was the Denwa River. We focused our gaze in that direction only to discover a translucent cover of a white sheet.
The calm silence of this mist covered scene broke with the guide announcing the possibility of a tiger camouflaged among the herbs. We waited a few minutes in anticipation. The wait allowed me to soak in the beauty and freeze the frame on my Nikon Z8 camera.
We spotted a herd of Sambhar Deer emerging from a wide patch of grassland. One of the deer stood at a point where the grass was green. Among the greens were a few strands of long, yellow ones. They gleamed like gold in the bright sunlight.
The deer turned its face towards us and stayed still like a professional model for the next 45 seconds or so. This allowed me to capture the image you see below.
As the day went on, the sun grew stronger. We arrived at a grassy area that looked quite different from the last one.
This time, the grass was a striking shade of yellow. Sunlight streamed through, creating a scattered effect. An Indian Gaur was grazing on the dew-covered grass, enjoying its morning meal. It moved a little and looked straight towards us.
We were now on our way to a quick stop for breakfast. Our guide announced that we will get a 30 minutes refreshment break before resuming the second half of the safari.
Mornings are the best one to witness the Indian Giant Squirrels in action. I mentioned this to our guide. He told that we will be passing through the squirrel area to reach the breakfast point. My anxiety and hope to see and capture the large colourful squirrel in its natural habitat turned real a few minutes later.
We arrived at an area where tall trees cast shadows over the sunny day. There, we spotted two squirrels frolicking atop the tallest tree. One of them jumped from one tree to another at jet speed and vanished behind the thick green leaves.
The other squirrel started exhibiting its mannerisms without getting intimidated by our presence. At one point, it hung upside down from a branch and started to enjoy a fresh pair of leaves. This position revealed its colourful underside and its large, wine-red golden tail.
I was more than happy to capture these moments with my trusted Nikon Z8.
The second half of the safari brought a surprise. Hidden behind a thick cover of vegetation a tiger was feasting on its kill. The distance and the foliage made it a difficult to witness the moment through naked eyes.
My Nikon Z8 camera with a zoom lens managed to capture a fraction of this scene.
As we neared the end of our safari, our gypsy came to sudden halt. As we adjusted to the jolt, our driver pointed out a rat snake on the unpaved track.
The late morning sun made the path appear golden, contrasting with the snake's brown skin.
The safari was quite an event for us. We reached the makeshift jetty to embark on our final journey to the other end of the tiger reserve. The harsh morning sun cast a deeper shade of blue on the rippling waters.
A beautiful scene emerged with the light blue sky and tiny blue-green boats anchored at the jetty. It was a perfect symphony of colours.
Sunrise & Denwa River
Sunrise symbolizes hope and new beginnings. The rolling hills and flowing river create a stunning dawn experience. MPT's Bison Resort's first-floor balcony offers the perfect vantage point for such moments.
This morning, the sun was eager to display its brighter side. To make the most of this enthusiasm, I stepped outside the resort boundaries.
Soon, I discovered a lovely spot near the riverbank. The water was lapping at the banks in calmness. The sun was transitioning from its gentle dawn appearance to a fiery whitish-yellow.
The water underneath the sun glimmered like liquid gold.
Awakened by the buzz of my phone, I realised it was time to prepare for checkout. As I walked to the landscaped garden, the beauty around me beguiled me once more.
The sunrise bathed the Denwa River in a golden hue, which blended with the pale blue sky. The vibrant greens and rich maroons of the garden enhanced the breath taking scene.
Best time to visit Satpura Tiger Reserve
The best time to visit Satpura is from October to March. The weather is cool and pleasant, perfect for safaris. Wildlife is easier to spot during these months, as animals are more active. For birdwatching, October to December is ideal, as many migratory birds visit the park.
Avoid visiting in the summer (April to June) when temperatures can soar above 40°C.
Satpura Tiger Reserve Safari Timings
The safari timings at Satpura Tiger Reserve vary by season. This allows best wildlife viewing experience while considering daylight hours and weather conditions.
Winter Timings (October – March)
Morning Safari: 6:30 AM – 11:30 AM
Evening Safari: 3:00 PM – 5:30 PM
Summer Timings (April – June)
Morning Safari: 5:45 AM – 11:30 AM
Evening Safari: 4:00 PM – 6:45 PM
These timings apply to both core and buffer zones. Entry and exit points see strict regulation. Boat safaris and walking safaris follow slight difference in schedules. This depends on water levels and forest regulations.
Safari Booking in Satpura Tiger Reserve
Jeep safaris are the best way to explore Satpura Tiger Reserve. These safaris are available in different zones, with Madhai being the most popular.
For Madhai zone, an additional boat safari allows visitors to glide over the Denwa River, offering a unique perspective of the forest and its aquatic life. Crocodiles, otters, and water birds can often be spotted from the boat.
Bookings for jeep safari can be made in advance through MP Forest Department website. Limited number of vehicles are allowed per session, so early reservations are recommended.
Safari timings vary by season, with morning and evening slots available. A forest guide accompanies each vehicle, ensuring a safe and informative experience.
Satpura Tiger Reserve Online Booking Charges
When planning a jeep safari at Satpura Tiger Reserve you have two options: booking the entire vehicle or a single seat. The permit charges differ based on the visitor's nationality and the day of the week. Premium dates encompass weekends and public holidays, whereas other days are classified as normal.
Refer to the table below for Satpura Tiger Reserve Booking charges. Please note that charges for the vehicle and guide are not included in the online permit and will be collected during your park excursion.
Nationality | Vehicle Type | Zone | Normal Date Fee | Premium Date Fee |
Indian | Full Vehicle | Core | 2400* | 3000* |
Indian | Single Seat | Core | 400* | 500* |
Foreign National | Full Vehicle | Core | 4800* | 6000* |
Foreign National | Single Seat | Core | 800* | 1000* |
India & Foreigner | Full Vehicle | Buffer | 1200* | 1200* |
* Plus MPOnline portal fee. Fee in INR. Rates depicted above applicable between 1st October 2024 to 30th June 2025. For current rates please refer to the Satpura Tiger Reserve page on Forest department website.
How to book Satpura Tiger Reserve Online Permit?
For a comprehensive guide to booking online permits for National Parks in Madhya Pradesh, you can refer to the detailed overview in my Bandhavgarh blog post.
The booking process for Satpura Tiger Reserve is very similar, with just one key difference! When you reach the park selection stage on the booking website, simply choose "Satpura Tiger Reserve" instead of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. All the other steps remain the same.
What is the cost of safari in Satpura Tiger Reserve?
In December 2024, I opted for a single-seat safari in the Madhai core zone in Satpura Tiger Reserve.
The permit cost me INR 800, while the shared vehicle and guide fee was INR 1000. I paid INR 100 for a two-way boat transfer. Thus, the total cost for an Indian visitor in a single-seat safari was INR 1900.
On another day, there were no other passengers to share the safari costs. As a result, I had to bear the full vehicle and guide fee of INR 3675.
Since it was a weekend, the permit cost increased to INR 1000, while the boat transfer fee remained INR 100. This brought my total expense for the solo safari to INR 4775.
How to reach Satpura Tiger Reserve?
Satpura Tiger Reserve is located in Madhya Pradesh, and the nearest major city is Bhopal. Here are the best ways to reach the reserve:
By Air: The nearest airport is Raja Bhoj Airport in Bhopal (IATA: BHO), around 150 km from the reserve. From the airport, you can hire a taxi or take a local bus to reach the reserve.
By Train: The nearest railway station is Itarsi Junction (IRCTC Station Code: ET), located about 45 km from the reserve. From there, you can travel by taxi or private vehicle.
By Road: Satpura is well-connected by road, with good highways leading to the reserve. You can drive from Bhopal, Itarsi, or Narmadapuram, which are the closest towns.
Over the last three years, I have had many wildlife outings. Most of these were over three days, which allowed for a broader experience.
The brief Satpura Tiger Reserve outing came bundled with little packets of happiness. The Indian Giant Squirrel’s display was exciting. The sunrise moments felt timeless. Everything was picture-perfect.
I wish to return to this incredible place for an extended stay next winter.
I hope you enjoyed reading about my experience!
Have you explored Satpura Tiger Reserve? Share your experiences or let me know your thoughts on this post in the comments!
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