On a trip to discover the unexplored Konkan beaches and the taste of delicious food. Facets of the elegant coastal town Ratnagiri revealed.
"The sea looks amazing in the prime of the morning. Not only in the morning, the sea dons a new avatar in every moment of the day. Sometimes blue, sometimes orange, sometimes shining like silver. And some other time red like the dusky sky. Its roar is synonymous with the arrival of an army marching on foot. Its silence is comparable to the whisper of a friend". This was the conversation between the young man and the caretaker of the lighthouse. A fortuitous encounter at the beach.
What you read above is a scene from a popular old Hindi film. It was a mere coincidence that I was watching this movie after finishing the outline for this post. My journey to the coastal town of Ratnagiri got centred around similar thoughts. I wished to capture the colours of its unexplored shores defying the best beach time of the day.
Boarding the bus to a different destination helped me discover a pristine beach. One that remained alien to the locals here. I got a couple of opportunities to catch the fading sun over the waters of the Arabian Sea. The history of a king in exile architecting a marvellous palace is an inspirational tale. It highlights that obstacles can be turned into opportunities and problems into possibilities. Savouring the coastal delicacies of Konkan added a delightful food experience.
The following sections unfold my travel experience to this beautiful coastal city.
Ratnagiri - The heart of Konkan Coast
Ratnagiri is a port town on the shores of the Arabian Sea in the Indian state of Maharashtra. It's famous to the world over for its mangoes - Haapus Aam (The Alphonso Mango). The town also serves as the administrative headquarter of the Ratnagiri district.
The coastal hinterland of Ratnagiri district consists of narrow riverine islands, river valleys. Thanks to the slopes of the Western Ghats, about 45% of the district has hilly terrain. These geographical features make it a true reflection of the enclosing Konkan Coast.
Ratnagiri district is a treat for the travelling souls. Many of its beaches and hamlets to this day aren't known to the maddening tourist crowd. You can experience the adorable beauty of the region in absolute silence.
Famous things in Ratnagiri
Apart from the mangoes, Ratnagiri is also famous for its cashew. Also, the birthplace of the great freedom fighter Lokmanya Tilak.
Ratnagiri tourist places
Mandavi Beach
Mandavi in the past used to serve as a port for the ships travelling from the far west. Today it's a popular beach among the locals and the tourists due to its expansive view of the Arabian Sea. It's located at a comfortable walking distance of 2 KM from the Ratnagiri City Bus Stand.
The black-brownish sand on its shore makes the beach unique. It offers panoramic views of the nearby lighthouse and the sea bridge.
The beach is a popular picnic spot, often crowded in the evening. To avoid the crowd visit the beach in the morning hours. Mornings in winters will bless you with the sight of migratory birds.
Thiba Palace
The Thiba Palace is a beautiful mansion in the Abhyudha Nagar area of Ratnagiri town. Being located in a corner, it's not immediately visible from the leading road. The crimson-red colour palace will grab your attention as soon as you reach its main entrance. The symmetry seen in its construction is a striking feature of the century-old palace.
The palace has a history that is both condemnable and commendable.
Condemnable as the palace got constructed as an exile home for the Burmese King Thibaw. The king got defeated by the British in 1885. This led to the fall of his rule and the Burmese Kingdom. The British exiled king along with his family to a desolate location in Ratnagiri. Stripping off all the powers of the king was the ill intention behind the ghastly move. The king spent 30 years in imprisonment.
Now the commendable part. The British made no compromise in the architecture of the palace.They spent INR 167, 000 during its construction in 1910-1911. King Thibaw was allowed to visit the site. The king had a penchant for architecture. Thanks to the king's suggestions, the palace sees glimpses of Burmese architecture. The slanting roofs and the heavy use of Burmese teak are live examples of the incredible inputs.
The British took over the palace after the king's death in 1916 and used it as an administrative office. Post-independence the palace served as the office of the Indian government. Years later it became the sub-centre of Bombay University.
Present-day it's managed by the Archaeological Department of the Maharashtra govt. The palace is open to visitors for a fee of INR 10. It's open from 9 AM - 5 PM except for Monday.
Thiba Point
A ten-minute walk from the Thiba Palace takes you to a hillock. The elevation provides a scintillating view of Ratnagiri's coastline. The local municipal corporation converted the hilly terrain into a pretty landscape garden. The place is aptly called the Thiba Point (Jijamata Garden) due to its proximity to the palace. The three-storey watchtower inside is the best place to see the sun setting over the Arabian sea. The evening sun often gold-plates the seascape.
Arrive here before dusk. This gives you enough time to gorge on the other pleasing sights visible from the slopes of the garden. Head to the circular watch gallery you see on the extreme left. The large green patch seen from here is Kajali Mangrove. The waters of the Kajali river surrounds its rim.
Go to the terrace of the watchtower to see the river submerging into the sea across the Bhatye Bridge. From here, the lighthouse appears like a straight line on the faraway hill. Fishing boats of different shapes and sizes adds beauty to the semi-circular coastline.
In short, you've seen the lush green mangroves. The river-sea confluence, the landscape view of the city's coastline. And, the mesmerising sunset over the Arabian Sea. This package is all yours for INR 5. Yes, you read that right. This is the entry fee to Thiba Point. It's open on weekdays from 9 AM - 9 PM.
Ratnadurga Fort
The Ratnadurga or Ratnagad Fort is a 12th-century sea fort. It's located at a distance of 3 KM from the city bus stand. The fort got surrounded by the sea from three sides. The fort complex is spread on a huge area of over 120 acres. The fort provides a panoramic view of the Arabian Sea.
The fort rises by a mere height of 100 metres from its base. This eases accessibility. The circumference of the fort has a broad stone rampart. The tiny frame of the bastion provides a well-composed view of the aqua colour water of the Arabian Sea. There're 11 of them throughout the periphery wall of the fort.
The star attraction of the fort is the huge sea cave seen on its left bottom. You need to go close to the boundary wall that you see on the crimson dirt road. This will be on the left side of the main road before the final ascent to the fort. Don't try to jump off this wall. The patch on the other side goes down steep. The gravel on the loose soil can result in a fatal fall on the rocks several hundred metres below.
Walk for a couple of minutes inside the fort. You're welcomed with a spectacular view of the Arabian Sea. The rugged mountain terrain on the east side makes the entire landscape eye-catching. The wide view will also include the lighthouse on the far east.
Continue walking for few more minutes to reach the square-shaped parapet. You'll see a pier from the fort's bottom. This points to the close range island. Its forest-green vegetation complements the azure water of the sea.
The merry-go-round of the fort will end with the expansive view of the Ratnagiri port. The port acts as a fishing harbour. You'll see colourful fishing boats sailing across the length of the port and beyond. The boats often line themselves in patterns. The elevation of the fort will allow you to see interesting symmetries in the pattern.
Places to visit near Ratnagiri
Ratnagiri district is a treasure trove when it comes to travelling. You've got sea and land forts, historical monuments, ancient caves and temples. The region has jungles, seashores, lateritic plateaus, extensive grasslands. The wild population of leopards, hyenas, foxes, deer, and Indian gaur grace its forests.
In summary, you've got plenty of options for an excursion from Ratnagiri. In such a place, it often pays to choose a theme rather than trying to visit everything in one go. I've got a wonderful example of theme-based travel in my last post. Check it out.
Best beaches in Konkan
My trip to Ratnagiri had a larger goal. I wanted to cover the unexplored beaches of the Konkan region. This was due to get translated into a multi-episode video documentary. Ratnagiri has 167 KM of coastline. As I said earlier, the geographical features of the region make it a true reflection of Konkan. There couldn't be a better option to begin the series than here. Below is the first video of the series.
Let me present two of the alluring beaches I managed to visit outside the town of Ratnagiri.
Ganpatipule Beach
Ganpatipule is a small town situated at a distance of 25 KM from Ratnagiri city. It got its name from the self-originating idol of the Hindu god Ganesh. Ganpatipule beach is famous due to its golden sandy shoreline that extends over a length of 3 KM. The beach is popular due to its scenic beauty and religious significance.
The tourism activity gets contained within 400 metres from the Ganpatipule Temple. This is the point where Maharashtra State Tourism (MTDC) resort limit begins.
The 2 KM stretch after you cross the MTDC resort hardly see any tourists. The rock presence you see at this point continues for a couple of hundred metres. The beige-coloured sand on the beach was getting complimented by the greyish-black rocks.
As you walk further, catch the sight of the seawater transforming the beach into a palette of brown. I got drawn to the interplay of colours created by the afternoon sun. The far end of the beach got a charming mangrove. The varying heights of the groves seem to draw a serpentine line in the middle of the horizon.
A five minutes walk takes you close to the green cover. The sight of the backwater channel filled by the waters of the sea will surprise you. This was a sort of discovery. I haven't heard about this phenomenon during the internet search. Nor during the conversation with the shopkeeper near the entrance of the beach.
The backwater empties into a small-sized lake. The water was still despite the constant flow from the sea. The sand on the bank of the pond was more like quicksand. Don't go to the edge, the soft sand can quickly give away.
Walk to the other end of the lake to see the formation of the backwater channel. Over here you see the wavy water from the sea mellowing down. It amalgamates with the chocolate-brown sand on the dampish shore. Be here before dusk. This allows you to witness the magical scenery created by the fading yellow sunlight.
A sweet evening awaits on your way back. By now, the sun must've reduced to a soft orange spotlight. The wet sand reveals its glossy texture while getting brighten up by the shining smudge.
Ganptipule beach is the best place to witness dusk at sea.
Ganeshgule Beach
I shared the joy of visiting the wonderful Ganeshgule beach upon returning to Mumbai. People told me that I must've visited the Ganpatipule beach. The list includes the native Maharashtrians from the Konkan region. The confusion is bound to happen given the similar-sounding names.
But, let me tell you that you've got a beach in the tiny village of Ganeshgule. The road that leads to the village takes a 90° right turn after 1.3 KM from the Pawas State Transport Bus Stand. It continues for a distance of 4 KM to the village. The narrow road sees swathes of grasslands on either side. It becomes serpentine to cross a tiny hill in the last mile.
The remoteness makes the village and its beach alien to the city of Ratnagiri that lies at a short distance of 22 KM.
The beach lies at the west end of the village. This gives the added advantage of touring this wonderful hamlet. Tall coconut trees interspersed in plenty across its length. You'll see banana plants and a mango tree in almost every house. The profound green cover provides a cool atmosphere in the hot coastal afternoon. The freshness in the air you feel here is a rare feeling in urban spaces.
The arc-shaped beach dons a forestry hillock on its right end. The red colour seen in the lower half of the hill is due to laterite soil seen in this region. You'll see a large number of haphazard boulders strewn in this part of the beach.
The other end of the beach has a hill that looks symmetrical. Unlike the former, this was way more greener. The cover of palm trees behind the white sand of the beach makes the arc pattern look fuller.
Traversing the length of the beach shouldn't take more than ten minutes. The softness and the texture of the sand in the middle of the beach will amaze you. It looks as if nature has laid a white carpet for your welcome.
The only marks you'll see on this side of the remote beach are those made by the receding waves.
The sight of a backwater channel on this side of the beach was a pleasant surprise. Unlike the one seen at Ganptipule beach, this had a narrow channel. The transparent water channel with scaly stones had a charming look.
Ganeshgule has a couple of bus services to Ratnagiri during the day. There wasn't a proper bus stop in the village. A not so large unpaved space at the end of the village is the only place where a bus can make a U-turn. This point serves as the bus stop.
I decided to walk towards Pawas rather than waiting on the dusty spot. The decision got influenced by the sight of large grasslands. One that I saw outside the village limits earlier.
Google map suggested a route that was different from what the bus took in the morning. To be honest, this wasn't a problem as this route took a zigzag course on a hilly road. The green cover dotting this stretch is seldom seen elsewhere in early February.
Hotels in Ratnagiri
Ratnagiri is a commercial city. You'll have no problem finding a decent hotel for accommodation here.
For INR 800 per night Hotel Shanti The Grand Palace is a worthwhile option. It's located at a walkable distance of 750 metres from the Central Bus Station. The midsize A/C Deluxe room had a comfortable double bed with air-conditioning and a portable dish TV. Its spacious attached bathroom had 24/7 hot and cold water.
It's located in the busy market area close to the city bus stand. This gives you plenty of options for shopping and eating. The only downside is the availability of space. Parking and manoeuvring your car in the cramped lanes can be difficult.
Seafood restaurants in Ratnagiri
Konkan is a heaven if you're a seafood lover. A wide variety of sea and freshwater fish, prawns, and crab find their way to the city's restaurants and lunch homes. The use of special Konkani species adds a distinct flavour to the food. Coconut is a common ingredient that sees frequent use from appetizers to curries.
Hotel Amantran is a popular seafood restaurant that serves good food. I tried their Pomfret Thali. The price of INR 250 + taxes was okay for the decent size pomfret that came with a side dish of Kingfish curry. A bowl of rice, two bhakri, two chutneys, and a bowl of Solkadi were the other items on the plate.
For the second dinner, I was looking for an option close to my hotel. I stumbled upon Mahesh Lunch Home during the internet search. It's not associated with the popular hotel chain with the same name you see in the suburbs of Mumbai. This is a small place with simple but bright and clean looks.
The Jumbo Surmai Thali I ordered came with a large piece of fried Surmai (Indo-Pacific King Mackerel) fish. It had three pieces of fried Mandeli (Anchovies), a bowl full of fried tiny fish, two preparations of Kingfish. The fresh Solkadi was a reliving appetiser. It came with four bhakri. It also had rice that I said no to for the obvious reason.
INR 350 was too little of a price for such a large plate. The long fish you see in the picture above is the famous Bombil (Bombay Duck) Fry that I ordered separately for INR 100.
The food and warmth of the people serving the meal will overwhelm you. A highly recommended place for your Ratnagiri visit.
How to reach Ratnagiri
By Road: Ratnagiri lies on Panvel - Kochi national highway NH66. Plenty of private and state-owned buses connects Mumbai (350 KM), Pune (303 KM), and Goa (243 KM) daily.
Konkan Railways - Mumbai to Ratnagiri train
Konkan Railway is a rail line that traverses the rugged coastal terrain of Konkan. It covers a distance of 756 KM spanning across the states of Maharashtra, Goa, and Karnataka. The 1819 bridges and 592 tunnels on this arduous stretch is a marvellous feat of engineering.
A train journey on this route is a lifetime experience. This is the best way to witness the unprecedented beauty of the Konkan landscape. The experience increases manifold during the monsoon.
Ratnagiri is a major railhead and a subdivision on the Konkan Railway. All trains (including premium ones like Rajdhani & Tejas) halts here. It's connected with daily trains to Mumbai, Madgaon (Goa), New Delhi, Amritsar, Jamnagar, Ernakulam, and Mangalore.
By Air: Ratnagiri has a domestic airport. It's owned and managed by the Indian Coast Guard. Construction work for the passenger terminal is in progress right now. Its completion is due in 2022.
The nearest international airport Dabolim (IATA: GOI) in Goa situated at a distance of 255 KM. Mumbai's CSIA (IATA: BOM) is 340 KM away. Being India's second-largest airport it has better flight options.
Ratnagiri is a place that will amaze you with its exquisite landscape. Many of its corners to this day remained unexplored. A splendid coastal region such as this seldom remains alienated from tourism explosion. Be here as a responsible traveller.
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