A visual story about an offbeat Uttarakhand hill town that overlooks the five sister Himalayan peaks offering the best view of nature.
"A shared taxi for Munsiyari left an hour ago", the next response from the petrol pump attendant was startling - "the road to Munsiyari had a couple of landslides today, the clouds are looming fast, chances of getting a vehicle at this time is next to impossible". The hope of covering the last 70 kilometres was diminishing with every passing second. "Walk down 200 metres south towards the market, you might get a seat in a taxi coming from Haldwani".
The next 90 minutes was no less than a marathon. I walked past every stopping vehicle, at times with the rucksack, at other times without, went across the length of the market street a zillion times. At last, saw a vehicle with a board of "Thal Munsiyari Taxi Service", a hard-to-believe flattering movie scene. It was cut short with the driver confirming the ride will commence the next morning at 7 AM. The 16 hours wait looked longer than the eleven years I've been longing to visit this dazzling Himalayan town.
Munsiyari
Munsiyari is a small hamlet situated on the eastern fringes in Uttarakhand's Pithoragarh district. The ubiquitous sight of Panchachuli - the five magnificent Himalayan peaks seen from every corner of the hill station best explains the reason behind its name that in the local dialect translates to land of snow.
Munsiyari lies on the ancient salt route to Tibet that marks the start of Johar Valley. The valley runs along the path of the Gori Ganga river to its source at Milam Glacier.
This hill station overlooks the four Himalayan peaks. Laden with snow during winters, this Garhwal town is a true counterpart of Munsiyari - winter wonderland in the Garhwal Himalayas.
Delhi to Munsiyari
If heading from any place that is geographically located below Delhi then Delhi becomes the ideal base location for the Munsiyari voyage. The 621 KM journey can be gruesome, seldom doable at a stretch. My journey started from Mumbai, this added 1400 odd kilometres to the odyssey. The pre-dawn flight helped me board the 620 AM Kathgodam Shatabdi Express from New Delhi railway station at ease. The idea was to spend half a day at Nainital. This served the dual purposes of breaking the journey into halves and witness the unprecedented beauty of the Himalayan lake town.
The afternoon arrival at Nainital got welcomed by a heavy downpour. This was the end of September, a lean period before the onset of the busy tourist season. Monsoon was supposed to be on a withdrawal spree. Weather in the mountains can change rapidly, quite often during the season transition period. The natural event resulted in a total makeover of the surroundings.
Nainital to Munsiyari
A distance of 260 KM seems doable in an urban landscape. On the contrary, this could be a lot tedious in the mountains. Rain, bad roads, and landslides can add to the woes. I started in the wee hours of the morning to allow myself sufficient buffer time in case one of these risks turn real. The state transport bus station looked like an empty stadium. Private taxis were available, however, they quoted an exorbitant fare for the drop.
A quick enquiry revealed the possibility of getting a ride from Bhowali was higher as this is an important junction (and a bypass 12 KM from Nainital) on the National Highway 109. Private buses and shared taxis are frequent on this highway as this road connects the bulk of the Kumaon region to the rest of Uttarakhand and India.
I got a Kumaon Mandal private bus heading to Didihat after a modest wait of 15 minutes. The conductor confirmed that I could change over at Thal for the last 70 KM journey to Munsiyari. The bus departed fully packed in ten minutes.
The bus resumed its journey after a quick 15 minutes breakfast halt now continued on NH 309A. The landscape changed right after crossing the ranges of Almora. The road began its ascend steeply through oak and rhododendrons forest. You might feel overwhelmed with the freshness of the green cast all around. Just then the valley spreads its arm wide open, the mountains suddenly gain enormous heights spreading themselves entirely along the sinusoidal single-lane road. The 60 KM journey till Seraghat continues to mesmerise so much that you'll keep looking towards the right forever!
With plenty of intermittent stops, a couple of roadblocks, continuous rain, and a flat tire incident the bus managed to reach Thal with a mere delay of 30 minutes.
The conductor dropped me near the petrol pump with a reassurance that I'll definitely get a ride to Munsiyari within a reasonable wait. However, the wait went too long, so long that I had to take a temporary night stay at a lodge situated on the first floor of a grocery store. The room was smelly but clean, the toilet and the bathroom were separate, again very clean and with taps full of ice-cold water. There couldn't be a better stay in INR 50!
What I saw after stepping out of the shower area was astonishing - the rain had stopped, the mist was orchestrating a fusion of the evening sky with the charming landscape that was dotted with floating sponge-like white clouds. In the mountains, a day always ends with a symphony!
Thal to Munsiyari
The Munsiyari journey resumed the next morning at around 830 AM. The Thal - Didihat road bifurcates after 20 KM at Gochar and continues as the Thal - Munsiyari road. The next 50 kilometres was one experience that will remain unforgettable. The Ramganga river spreads its arm to become wider at Nachani.
The road outside the town speaks volumes about the destruction caused by the previous night's landslide. The authorities managed to restore the road just enough for one vehicle to manoeuvre at the sharp edge. An inch of a wrong move here can result in a catastrophic dive into the roaring river.
Things changed after a few kilometres. The single-lane metal road was a relief, the views were astonishing. The hairpin bends announced the entry into the high-mountain region. Every passing village with its beautiful houses and their livestock was a soothing sight to watch.
The rolling hills covered with low hanging clouds in the morning hours complimented the great mountain journey. The cumulus clouds dancing around the pyramids of green mountains elevated the mood. The four-hour-long journey was definitely worth it on a bright morning.
The Munsiyari market street was all wet confirming the rain started much before my arrival. I started climbing the damp flight of steps avoiding the slippery moss to dodge a fall.
KMVN Munsiyari
This section is not a typical paid hotel review you see elsewhere on the internet rather just a visual summation of the experience I had during my three days stay at the property.
The Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Tourist Rest House at Munsiyari (KMVN TRH Munsiyari) is a govt. run hotel managed by Tourism Department of Uttarakhand. The striking thing about these properties is their impeccable location. This one was no different. In fact, it was a notch higher in exceeding all expectations. To begin with, the hotel is situated on the fringes of Munsiyari town (from the Thal side) on a large steep land allowing a clear sight of the Panchachuli Peaks.
The three-storey hotel looks even more spacious from the inside. The rooms had slanted roof, typically seen in old colonial bungalows. My room was huge length-wise. On its chocolate-brown wooden floor it accommodated a comfortable double bed, two large sofas with a centre table. A cable television got thoughtfully placed on the large dressing table.
The highlight of the room was its windows. Remove the curtains just before sipping the morning tea (or coffee or anything else, important thing - remove the curtains!) for an astounding view of the Himalayan mountains from almost any corner of the room. The cover image of this post (or the first image of the post) is the early morning view captured from one of the windows of the room!
Looking for a place to wake up to stunning snow-capped mountain views, just like you did in Munsiyari? Check out this beautiful hill station in the Himalayas - wake up to snow-capped mountain views from your hotel room.
If you're a fan of freshly cooked simple food then you'll surely like the hotel's food. The complimentary breakfast had a fixed day-wise menu, sumptuous in quantity and tasty. A five minutes walk through the shortcut path right behind the hotel leads to the market in case you need more options.
Nanda Devi Temple Munsiyari
Nanda Devi Temple is dedicated to Goddess Nanda, an incarnation of Hindu Goddess Durga. The temple is located just outside the town on the Munsiyari - Madkot road, hence, quite accessible by vehicle. From KMVN the distance is roughly 3 KM (2.2 KM from the market). This was an excellent opportunity for a simple day hike. Reasons? plenty. First and foremost, crisscrossing the town is a wonderful way of witnessing the mountain life through the streets, its houses, and the people.
Second, the views. Keep looking to the left as soon as the town limits end. The enormous valley of cascading mountains will make you awestruck. Walk forward 200 metres to the milestone that signals the last kilometre to the temple and turn towards the valley. You'll be instantly drawn to the red-roofed house flanked by a stack of lush green mountains narrowing downwards. The glowing binge-coloured spiral path running down from heights increased the beauty of the pretty house.
The temple is perched on top of a sprawling meadow at the end of forested land. A red arch on the other side of the road is an indication that you're headed in the right direction. Climbing up the steps takes one to the flat path whose soft ascend leads to the temple. On the right lies a steep gorge, one can walk with ease thanks to the guard rails covering the entire length till the main gate of the temple.
The temple attracts a nominal entry fee of INR 20. This amount was nothing compared to the impeccable efforts of the authorities to maintain the landscaping of the huge meadow. A paved path from the entrance leads to the temple sitting at a corner on the left.
On a fair-sky day, the snow-capped Himalayan mountains can be clearly seen. On cloudy days (as seen in the below image) the surrounding mountains from three sides will be a soothing experience.
The meadow descends sharply towards the far end providing opportunities to witness the imposing mountains.
The authorities harnessed this physical phenomenon by building colourful dome-shaped watch galleries at right vantage points all along the descend. Go to the last gallery to catch a glimpse of the Gori Ganga river flowing at the very bottom of the boundless valley. Sit inside the gallery to soak into the beauty of nature, click pictures, but please don't litter or play loud music.
The temple, the oldest in Uttarakhand, remains open till 6 PM every day.
Places to visit in Munsiyari
Munsiyari is a treat to all types of travellers. You'll seldom take your eyes off the colossal Himalayan peaks of Nandadevi, Nandakot, and Rajarambha seen from your room's window.
The next admirable thing is to take a leisure walk across the market to the Tribal Museum to come close to the history, culture, traditions, and lifestyle of Bhotiyas - an ethnolinguistic group of people residing in the upper Himalayan valleys of the Kumaon and Garhwal regions of Uttarakhand.
Set aside an evening to walk up to the helipad to catch a glimpse of the colourful buildings of the town that stares childishly at the snow-laden Himalayan mountains while comfortably hugging the green valley.
For a day excursion, travel 35 KM south on the Munsiyari - Thal road to witness the 400 metres tall Birthi Fall. The waterfall gushes out from the lofty mountains in the middle of a thick forest.
The fall will be on the left if approaching Munsiyari from Thal. Stop at the café situated at the bottom for a hot chai and noodles break in the company of the swooshing waters.
Munsiyari Trek
In recent times Munsiyari drew its popularity of becoming the base camp to numerous trails into the interior ranges of the Kumaon Himalayas. The gruesome treks to Milam, Namik, and Ralam Glaciers are favourites among mountaineers and glacier enthusiasts.
Khalia Top Munsiyari
Head out 8 KM on the Munsiyari-Thal road to embark on a day trek to 3500 metres high Khalia (or Khuliya) Top for a jaw-dropping view of the snow-capped mountain landscape of Kumaon.
The 6 KM trek has a relatively flat gradient making it an easy hike. If you wish to get even better views then hike another 2.3 KM to Zero Point. This is moderately difficult due to the steep ascend. The effort is worthwhile given the rewarding panoramic view of the Himalayan peaks.
KMVN has a guest house 1 KM before the Khalia summit. A worthwhile option in case you like to stay put up in the night for star gazing and/or to witness the rising sun over the mountains.
Note: Although this is an easy trek, there're places where the gradient can become steep. Also, this is a high-altitude trek. You might experience the symptoms of Acute Motion Sickness. Carry basic medicines/first-aid and warm clothes.
Best time to visit Munsiyari
Munsiyari can be visited all around the year. Summer is the best season to witness the mountain peaks.
Winters are harsh resulting in heavy snowfall during November - March.
Monsoon spell magic to the landscape, however, it also brings heavy rains and landslides cutting off the town entirely from the rest of the state, hence, best avoided.
How to reach Munsiyari from Delhi
By Air: The domestic airport at Pantnagar (IATA:PGH) is the nearest airway option to Kumaon. Delhi has limited but direct flights connecting to Pantnagar. Hire a cab to cover the distance of 310 KM to Munsiyari. Shared taxis/private buses available from Haldwani (32 KM) as well.
By Rail: Kathgodam Railway Station (IRCTC Station Code: KGM) in the Nainital district is the nearest and major railhead connecting the Kumaon region to the rest of India. Delhi has two daily trains connecting to Kathgodam (Kathgodam Shatabdi dep. 620 AM arr. 1140 AM & Ranikhet Express dep. 820 PM arr. 455 AM). Private taxis available at the railhead can be hired to cover the distance of 278 KM to Munsiyari. Book your train tickets using Indian Railways official website IRCTC.
By Road: The 621 KM journey to Munsiyari via Almora - Berinag almost covers the entire length of Kumaon region and can be very tiring if done at a stretch. It's better to cover the distance taking a day/night halt at Almora (375 KM from Delhi).
By Bus/Public Transport: There are no direct buses from Delhi to Munsiyari. Take a bus either to Almora (375 KM from Delhi) or Pithoragarh (500 KM from Delhi) and then catch another bus or shared taxi to Munsiyari. State transport buses of Uttarakhand to the Kumaon region originates from Delhi's Anand Vihar ISBT. Shared taxis from Haldwani (294 KM from Delhi) usually available between 4 - 6 AM and reaches Munsiyari in 10 - 12 hours covering a distance of 286 KM.
During your Munsiyari visit reserve a day to leave the bed just before dawn to witness the fiery golden sun rising over the milky white mountains.
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